Kashmir is the one destination where the same three-night itinerary is four different holidays. The hotels, the private cab, the Mughal gardens and the shikara ride stay the same; the valley around them changes completely. Here is how we brief travellers from Delhi before they pick a date.
January – February · snow
Heavy snowfall in Gulmarg and Sonamarg, with skiing and snow activities in full swing. Pahalgam and Doodhpathri are serene and quiet. Dal Lake can freeze at the edges — the houseboat night is cold and wonderful. Pack for below zero; the Gondola to Apharwat is the reason to come.
March – April · spring
The transition to spring: blooming gardens, comfortable weather and vibrant landscapes make this an ideal time for sightseeing. The Tulip Garden below the Zabarwan hills opens for a few weeks in late March and April; Gulmarg is still a ski haven early in the season.
May – June · meadows
Pleasant temperatures — perfect for shikara rides on Dal Lake, trekking in Pahalgam, the Mughal gardens, and the meadows of Sonamarg and Doodhpathri in full bloom. This is peak season and the busiest; book hotels early, especially the houseboat night.
July – August · warm
Warm weather for golf in Gulmarg, river rafting in Pahalgam and the Sonamarg and Doodhpathri landscapes. The Amarnath Yatra runs from Pahalgam in these months, so union-taxi queues at Pahalgam can be longer — we build extra time into the day.
September – October · chinar
Crisp autumn air; the chinar trees in the Mughal gardens turn flame-orange through October. Awantipora ruins, treks and the autumn foliage in Gulmarg, Pahalgam and Doodhpathri. Our favourite month for photographs — and the light on the houseboats at 6 pm is unreasonable.
November – December · winter sets in
Chilly temperatures and the first snowfall invite skiers back to Gulmarg, while Sonamarg and Doodhpathri turn into snow-covered landscapes. Hotel rates soften; the valley is quiet.
The gondola, the pony rides and the union taxis at Pahalgam, Gulmarg and Sonamarg are paid on the spot — we list them as not included so the package price is the package price.
Eat: Rogan Josh, Yakhni, Gushtaba and, at least once, a proper Wazwan. Drink kahwa every afternoon. Bring home saffron from Pampore, which you drive past on the way to Pahalgam.
